Sunday, January 1, 2012

DIY Survival Gear Mods - H&R Tamer .410 Shotgun - Tip #2 - Installing Sling Studs

One of the most universal things that can be added to a shotgun or a rifle is a sling that will make it easier to carry. Unfortunately, if your shotgun or rifle didn’t come with studs for a sling, you’ll need to install sling studs before you can add swivels and a sling.

My particular H&R Tamer wasn’t equipped with sling studs and a close examination revealed a little detail that might be missed when installing sling studs on the Tamer’s synthetic stock. If you take the time to examine your H&R Tamer .410 shotgun closely, you will find out about this little detail that makes it fairly simple to install sling studs. This will help make the installation a lot sturdier. 

You will need some sling studs, a drill with drill bit (5/32 “in this case) for the pilot holes and an ice pick to make your starter holes and to install the studs. The ice pick fits easily through the hole of your sling studs and makes screwing them in a lot easier without damaging the stud. Make sure your drill bit is slightly smaller than the threads on your sling stud so you get a snug fit.

It’s fairly simple to install a sling stud on the synthetic buttstock. Even with the hollowed out design which allows for cartridge storage, it’s not very difficult to mount a sling stud. All you have to do is measure in about a half inch from the bottom edge of the rear of the buttstock and drill a pilot hole for the stud. If you go much further in, you risk the threads of the stud going all the way through the bottom edge.

Installing the sling stud on the forend is pretty simple but you need to use the place made for the stud that is incorporated into the synthetic forend. You can even install a sling stud on the forend with it attached to the shotgun but this is probably not the best way. Since the forend removes easily, it’s just as quick to install the sling stud with the forend detached. Just look for the bare spot on the forward part of the forend. This bare area corresponds to a circular area of the inside of the forend that is enhanced for the addition of a sling stud. Both places are pretty easy to spot. Once you’ve located the right place, drill your pilot hole and mount your sling stud.

Once you have the sling studs mounted, all you have to do is reattach your forend and add your favorite sling or make an improvised one.

Got sling studs?

Staying above the water line!



Anonymous said...

Nicely described sir - thanks for the post. I've used gimlets for drilling the holes in the past with great success, it gives me more control with the hole angle than a power drill or brace, but I'm not great with power tools (I'm often surprised, I still have all 10 fingers, lol).

The forearms on two of my single shot .410s were too short for comfortable placement of stud, I found the stud would wrap my forefinger - not exremely painful, but I still noticed it. So I used the Uncle Mikes 30/30 magazine tube sling attachments to mount on along the barrel, it works just fine. Also helps with a shorter slung length, the barrel sticks less higher and snags less vegetation.

Hope this description helps.

riverwalker said...

To: anonymous 6:30

I do all right with most power tools but I've had quite a bit of practice over the last 40 or so years. After that much time, I had better know what I'm doing by now.

The stud placement has never been an issue for me but might be for some people. I like the idea of using a barrel sling mount. My Tamer is pretty short overall and I don't think I'll have too many problems with it. My H&R Topper 88 Model is a bit longer so a barrel mount might be a good choice for it.

Thanks for the tip anon!


Anonymous said...

You are welcome sir - hope it works out. For turning those studs in, I just use an Allen key - I appreciate the tip on ice pick.

The Uncle Mike's barrel sling stud also works on the 20 gauge, if your Pardner gives you issues. I have one of those on my FIE SB1 single shot, another on my Savage 24C Camper.

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